Exeat of Cowes Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45.2

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We were thrilled that our digital logbook was commended by the Cruising Association in their recent logbook competition. Judge Katy Stickland praised our daily logs, the valuable detail they provided other sailors with, and the charts that showed the routes we had sailed each day. Apparently we were just 1 point off the winning entry!

”This log would be useful for those planning a similar voyage with excellent cruising information intercut with vivid passages. The use of the charts really helped visualise each leg of the voyage." – Katy Stickland, editor PBO Magazine

Head over to the Cruising Association website to read the logs of some of the winning entries – there are so many fascinating journeys from our fellow sailors and it’s both entertaining and informative to see how other cruisers have tackled different routes.

After a peaceful overnight at anchor, we woke to the sound of sailing boots sliding across the floor of our cabin. A jangle of glassware in the saloon followed. I sat up, at once alert to what these unfamiliar sounds could mean. The saloon floor was at a peculiarly jaunty angle, an unfinished wine bottle leant precariously over the galley counter and, peering up the companion-way, the horizon appeared to be tilted. Clambering up to the cockpit, the full extent of our position became clear.

When we had anchored, there was a strong westerly breeze which was expected to last overnight so we had deployed a little extra scope on the anchor. In the end, the wind eased to almost nothing and with a large tide Exeat had swung round into the shallows on the ebb. It being Springs, the low tide was low enough for us to go aground, so here we were: firmly wedged in soft mud, with our hull tipping precariously down at an angle our dog Buddy clearly found most discombobulating. And to be honest, so did I! Low tide was another thirty minutes off, so we still had some tilting to come; and then it would be another few hours before the water rose sufficiently for us to move. Rather than wait it out on our gravitationally-challenged boat, we hopped down into the dinghy and made for the shore. A long walk through Newtown Creek salvaged Buddy’s mood, and by the time we returned to Exeat, she was afloat. We swiftly raised the anchor, prepared the mainsail and headed back out into the Solent.

Nearly five months to the day that we had set off, we returned to Cowes Yacht Haven where Exeat was booked in to a winter berth. In a few weeks time she’d be lifted out for a much-needed clean, and then we could begin the long task of repairs and refits that she inevitably needed after a long summer sailing to France (via the Scilly Isles) and back (via the Channel Islands). She had proved a very reliable and enjoyable boat to sail and live on, but as any boat-owner knows, the sea is a relentlessly hostile environment and as well as the usual hull repairs and anti-fouling, we needed the canvas sprayhood completely replacing, a spreader mending, stanchions straightened, and the temperamental fridge & freezer yet again re-wiring. Let the work commence!

On Tuesday morning, we left Studland with the tide and flew across Poole Bay with just our headsail rolled out. A stiff breeze and favourable tide meant we were sailing at 7-8 knots even without the mainsail up. The iconic Needles were soon in sight, and before we knew it, we were plunged into the swirling waters between Hurst Castle and the Isle of Wight. The churning sea here reminded us of sailing through Brittany’s Morbihan region, with the choppy waves and racing tide providing a dramatic sight after our earlier smooth sail.

We wanted to dip into Yarmouth to replenish our stocks before a final night at anchor, so took a Short Stay on a walkashore visitor’s pontoon. Though not cheap (£24 for our 14m vessel), these do have the advantage of being very central, making it easy to zip into town. Yarmouth has a wealth of delightful shops to choose from, with a good deli, lots of cafes, and the well stocked but eye-wateringly expensive corner shop Harvey’s. Stocked up with a selection of gourmet delights, we made the most of our 4 hr berth allowance and enjoyed lunch on board, before slipping lines and heading round to Newtown Creek for the night.

Newtown was our first anchorage on leaving Cowes back in May, so it felt entirely appropriate that it should be our final stop before returning home at the end of our cruising season. On our previous visit, it had been so busy that we’d had to anchor just outside the harbour (along with twenty other boats!); this afternoon in early October there were just a few other boats scattered around and we easily found a vacant mooring buoy in the harbour.

An evening stroll along the shoreline at Newtown is always a delight, and on this occasion we were lucky enough to spot a rare Golden Pheasant in the trees bordering the foreshore. It felt like a supremely magical end to a very memorable sailing season. After all the incredible sights and wildlife we’d seen in the Scilly Isles, western France, the Channel Islands and the West Country, this vision in our own “backyard” reminded us that the Island (as the IOW is always fondly referred to) is also a pretty special place.

After our overnight in Poole harbour, we slipped round to beautiful Studland Bay the following day – blissfully quiet and jet-ski free at this time of the year. There are free eco-friendly mooring buoys here, designed as an alternative to anchoring to help conserve the seagrass meadows which are home to seahorse and other precious marine wildlife.

Studland Beach boasts a vast stretch of sand, and even in October there were families picnicking here, building sandcastles and braving the crystal-clear water of the bay. We landed our dinghy at Middle Beach, to the far left of the bay, and walked up the shore path to Fort Henry (a WWII observation bunker overlooking Studland Bay) passing über-trendy cafe The Sandy Salt Pig en route: as we’d already breakfasted on board, we didn’t sample their wares on this occasion but the coffee looked and smelled superb, and the menu was mouth-watering to read! It would make a good brunch or lunch spot for sailors anchoring overnight, and serves hot food until 4.30 pm. Another dining option in the area is the blow-the-budget Pig On The Beach (not actually on the beach in fact, but only a short walk away), and if you’re looking for a treat it’s worth every penny: fresh food is all grown in their extensive kitchen gardens and other ingredients are sourced within a 25 mile radius.

We continued our walk into the tiny village of Studland and bought a few supplies from Studland Stores: one of those brilliant village shops that sells a little bit of everything, including tiny pots of homemade chilli jam, eight different varieties of Dorset honey and hearty biscuits that are a meal in their own right.

If you have time, it’s well worth walking up to Old Harry Rocks for the breath-taking vista over the bay. Laden with groceries, we returned to the boat and made do with the stunning view from Exeat’s cockpit as we barbecued supper for our last al fresco meal of the year.

For today’s sail from Weymouth we were joined by a friend who wanted to sample life on the ocean wave. Luckily, weather conditions promised to be kind to us and our new crew member for his inaugural sail. Along with a favourable tide, we enjoyed a steady north-westerly that swept us smoothly along the stunning Dorset coastline, past Old Harry Rocks and into Poole Bay.

Poole Harbour may be the largest natural harbour in Europe but it has a narrow entrance of just 300m, with a chain ferry shuffling back and forth between Sandbanks and Studland throughout the day. We sailed past the ferry as it was filling up with passengers from Swanage, then made our way to Poole’s Old Town where our friend planned to exit Exeat. Admittedly, this is not the easiest spot to alight, but The Quay is convenient walking distance to a railway station, and saved us the shenanigans of going into a marina for such a fleeting visit.

After leaving The Quay we headed back out towards Upton Lake, turned round to Brownsea Island and dropped the hook off Pottery Pier. The island is owned and managed by the National Trust and most visitors arrive via ferry from Sandbanks; sailors are requested to anchor along the southern shore, so as not to disturb nesting birds on the north shore. (Harbour Dues are payable for all vessels staying overnight in Poole harbour and are payable online here). Given how busy Poole harbour can be, this anchorage is an incredibly peaceful spot and Brownsea Island makes a stunning backdrop, especially on a fine moonlit night.