La Roche-Bernard is the first town you reach on the banks of the Vilaine (although there is a marina just beyond the lock gate, and you can also anchor in the river outside of the main channel).

On arrival, we were directed by the Capitain to a visitor’s berth at the Port-Neuf marina, which has walk-ashore pontoons with power and water. Surprisingly (given that there’s also a campsite adjacent to the marina) shopping facilities are some distance from the port, with the nearest bakery and supermarket a good twenty minutes walk uphill – though we did manage to buy frozen water for our broken fridge from the capitainerie (at 2 euros a bottle).

There are several bistros bordering the waterfront near the Vieux Port, but – lured by the sound of live jazz floating through the air – we wandered into the pretty medieval town to explore our options for dinner. The town square near the Artisan Quarter is encircled by cafes and restaurants (including the Michelin-recommended Auberge des Deux Magots). We were drawn to the shady courtyard of the Creperie de la Roche which delivered delicious galettes and excellent service (including offering Buddy a water bowl, which he gratefully lapped up after a long day on the boat).

The following morning, we planned to head back out of the Vilaine, catching the 2pm lock opening (check times and requirements here). Another time, I would love to explore the river further – you can sail all the way up the Vilaine to Redon. But as we needed to be in La Rochelle in a week’s time, we would have to leave that discovery until our next visit.